Climbing Routes

(Photo Walter Neser - see www.wadirum.net)

Routes above are from left to right : Mumkin, Flight of Fancy, Mad Frogs and Englishmen, Inferno, Walk Like an Egyptian, Troubadour, Wall of Lace, Live and Let Die, Gold Finger, Inshalla. Several of these climbs can link with the longer climbs shown at the top of the page.

The traditional problem for climbers in Wadi Rum is the quality of the rock, which is very friable and often tends to crack at the least friction (see "Climbing El Habla"). Undoubtedly this can be tricky especially when you are using bolts or abseils already in place. I am told that the darker the rock the more solid it is, and that it is the lighter rock which is more likely to create problems - but remember that there are exceptions to every rule!

Here are some routes recommended as an introduction to climbing in Wadi Rum. These are French grades, and you will find fuller descriptions in Tony Howard's guide book (details given at the foot of the page). You will also find on the page "El Habla" a table giving the comparisons of rating of climbing difficulties between the French, the British and the UIAA systems.

West-East Traverse of Jebel Rum, ascent via Sabbagh’s Route, descent via Hammad’s Route, abseiling into Wadi Shelaali : this involves easy climbing (2/3) through marvellous scenery and with spectacular views across Wadi Rum. It really needs about eight hours, moving pretty fast; if you can take two days for it and sleep on the summit this is a great experience and a wonderful introduction to Wadi Rum. See routes 9 and 4 on the sketchmap of all the Jebel Rum routes and a couple of photos in the page "Photos of Climbs"

Jebel Rum East Face. Goldfinger (3/4/5+/5), Mumkin (5+/5/5+/5) and Inferno (5+/6b/5/5/6a): see photo above. These are three short climbs, close to the Rest House. They can each be done easily in half a day, choose the afternoon when they are in the shade.

Jebel Rum, The Dark Tower. Black Magic (mainly grade 5 climbing): 12 marvellous pitches, but the rock is not always trustworthy; it is ideal to get used to Rum sandstone and to test your route finding capabilities. A dissenting opinion has it that this is "not an interesting climb", let me know what you think.

Jebel Rum, Hammad’s Domes. The Pillar of Wisdom (throughout grade 4 and 5 climbing, except for the last pitch 6b or 6a A0): this starts off from the Rest House, and will take a full day. It is a very satisfying climb, but be careful about coming down again; the best way is to abseil by Hammad's route which isn't always easy to find. Don't get caught out by the sunset unless you had previously planned to sleep up there! (See the Photo Gallery "Wadi Rum: cliffs and climbs")

Jebel Rum, Rum Doodle (nothing over 5): in Wadi Shelaali, close to "Lawrence's Spring". An enjoyable climb up the front of two hidden pillars. Much appreciated by climbers.

Jebel um Ejil. The Beauty (5+/6a/5/5/5+): a very popular climb, in the famous Rakebat Canyon. Bolts and abseil points are already in place. (There is a photo of this route on the page "Photos of climbs")

Jebel Nassrani, Hikers' Road: with good rock and a fantastic view, this climb is highly recommended by Attayak Aouda as being entirely suitable for good medium grade climbers.

Jebel Burdah East Face, Orange Sunshine: there are a number of variants to this original route, with names like "Tangerine Dream" or "Marmalade Skies". Good rock, nothing over grade 5. (See photo in the Gallery "Wadi Rum: cliffs and climbs")

Jebel Barrah North Face, Hunter's Slabs (grades 1 to 4+ with a variant at 5+): a good, mostly "scrambling" route on pleasant slabs, no abseiling and no specialised equipment necessary.

Jebel Barrah East Face, Ocean Slabs: a popular climb, on the cliff opposite to Merlin's Wand at the northern entrance to the Barrah Canyon. The climb presents no particular difficulties, but the situation is impressive and is very exposed. There are three variants (Le Truand, La Brute and Le Bon) which, as their names suggest, are considerably more difficult (maximum of grade 6B for the first two, 6A for the third).

Jebel Sweibit, The Hadj: a great climb, mostly grades 4 and 5 with a stretch at 5+. The only problem with this is the distance, Jebel Sweibit is far to the south and a car to take you here would cost 60JD! (Mind you, the drive is magnificent....) This climb was featured in the BBC documentary and the subsequent video "The Face" which has contributed considerably to its popularity. Attayak Aouda enjoys climbing here and is planning on opening several new routes.

Some classic climbs in the higher grades

Jebel Rum, Abu Aina Towers. Lionheart (4/6a/6b/6a/6a/6b/6a/4): if you have a penchant for an impressive line and cracks, you will enjoy this "world classic", which offers the full range from finger crack to off-width. The belays are all bolted. Be careful, I have heard that the grading "reflects British understatement".

South Barrah Canyon, Merlin’s Wand/"Supercrack of Rum" (5+/6a/6a+/5+/5) - see photo higher up - and Enervit (7 pitches 5+, 6a and 6b): a lasting climbing and desert experience, especially when combined with a camp in the beautiful Barragh Canyon.

Um Swassa (behind Jebel Qatar). Sous le signe du Scorpion maximum 6c/7a: This is a newish route with some bolts and all the belays in place. Excellent rock, and a challenge for the old hands in Rum.

According to local climbers, the two technically hardest faces in Rum are: Fattamurgana, or the "Black Wall, named after its granite rock, on the eastern side of Jebel Khazali, about 12km south east of Rum village; and Al Jihad (also known as "La Guerre Sainte"), lying on the eastern side of Jebel Um Ishrin, east of Rum village. The route Fattamurgana was opened by Polish climbers and Al Jihad by the French (Arnaud Petit as usual!) These are graded at average 7b! Good luck if you want to try them!

It is interesting (to me anyway) that "La Guerre Sainte" seems in fact to be proving a pretty popular climb! If you are tempted, have a look at Walter's site again - he has a sketch map of the route with some comments.